Monday, March 3, 2008

Fitting - part 5 - saran (cling) wrap

This post is for Marji who had just left a comment asking for an update on the next stage. Marji has been helping me with some of those pesky fitting issues. I am still not satisfied so I have been delaying my report.

On my last post I made up a size 36 Burda blouse pattern which wasn't too bad but I felt still had some major issues around the shoulders, arms, front, back....well everywhere. So while reading my FFRP and also checking out a Palmer Pletsch pattern I have, they strongly suggest you start with a size that corresponds with your upper chest. That would put me in the size 34. So I made a muslin in 34 - better but still the same issues.

I can see armhole folds and gaping , shoulder "arrows" (btw, I did do a forward shoulder adj with this one), excess fabric in back below armhole and what would appear to be a prominent shoulder issue.

I have really appreciated all the feedback everyone has given me and I have tried all your suggestions. A common theme was to do a sloping shoulder adjustment.

On left no shoulder pads, on the right shoulder pads. The arrows to the shoulder are a bit worse and the neckline now is raised. And the armhole folds are not fixed. So no, it is not a sloping shoulder problem.

I played around and if I folded out a dart from bust to armhole it seemed to fix the problem. I don't think FFRP addresses this issue very well and I just wasn't confident in what I was doing.

So forward and onward I decided to have a go at the saran wrap. I had heard of this from Liana and followed the tutorial and Kathleen's Fashion Incubator site.

ok, no laughing! I will do a separate post of this later this week, but this photo will do for now to show your how I came up with this:

Most issues are gone! I can't quite figure out the lines just under the shoulder seams. I spent most of yesterday afternoon pinning, adjusting, resewing etc. In the end I have come to the conclusion that I have the neckline going too far up my neck or the folds are due to a dip in my shoulders - there is quite an indentation where my bra strap goes. The camera does magnify the lines. In the mirror they are barely visible.

So that is where I am up to. Next is to compare the sloper to a standard Burda 34 and see what adjustments I need to do to that to make it work. I am figuring the list will include:

  • Petite adjustment
  • Forward shoulder
  • Rounded upper back
  • prominent shoulder blades
  • narrow lower back
  • sway back

and the list goes on.........

I tell you, ignorance was bliss!


Sigrid said...

I'm admiring you for your continuous efforts on getting the fit right. It looks good, but I agree that being aware of these fit issues don't make sewing life easier.
Look forward to your experiences with the cling wrap.

designdreamer said...

WOW! That looks like a fabulous fit. Have perused the Fashion Incubator tutorial, looks very interesting. Looking forward to your experiences as well.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

All the work you are doing is very impressive. I have never seen or heard of the Saran wrap method :)
but it looks like you are gaining valuable knowledge from all the different methods you are trying. The end result will be well worth the effort!

Mary said...

Gosh I admire your perseverance on getting the perfect fit. I would have given up after toile number 1!

It looks to me that your neckline is too high. YOu might need to cut it a little lower where the shoulder seams meets your neck.

Summerset said...

Wow - you're still at it! Good for you. Once you're done you'll be glad you did it!

paco peralta said...

Ohh Vicki, I admire your perfection ..... congratulations. I am sure that everything will have a happy end. Ah!. Fabrics are wonderful. Greetings. Paco

Tany said...

Admirable work! The saran method really seems to work wonders!

AllisonC said...

Yes you have a ton more patience than me. Probably just as well, the world is not ready to see me in saran wrap! Your hard work does really seem to be paying off though, thanks for documenting the whole process.

patsijean said...

Yes, the neckline goes up too high. Look at the middle photo (muslin) You see how the back of the neckline is right at the bottom of your Necklace? Then you will notice that the muslin neckline goes UP over the chain and it should follow the line of the chain instead. I always used my fingers to find the neck joint, there will be movement when you move your neck from side to side just as your shoulder joint moves. The neckline should then circle around to the depression at the base of your throat. The Saran Wrap version is the best so far. Can't do more right now; have had the bad influenza for last 10 days and I seem to have only so much "brain time" available.

Marji said...

oh my, I'm just seeing sorry but I've been pretty much off-line in prep for my sister coming, then with her being here.
Vicki - you diagnosed it and others have confirmed it - that neckline is too high and that is causing those diagonal lines. Clip that neckline even and those lines will disappear.
ok, I'll go read the saran wrap thing .
You are one brave woman to keep posting all this. Kudos to you!

nile santos said...

Oi amiga.Vim te visitar.Adorei as explicações.bjitos.nile.

Dawn said...

I think fitting is like going to the doctor. Whenever the doctor looks too closely they always see something that needs fixng. This is really helpful for a beginner (me) though! Thank you.

Birgitte said...

Hi Vicky! You haven't posted in awhile. Have you had any more time for fitting? You are doing so incredibly well on this, so please, please don't give up. We are all very grateful to be able to follow your journey. I'm in the middle of a draping that silk into a blouse right now, so you are very much in my thoughts :-)

LMH said...


Judging from the problems you've been having, you might find the Bray book very illuminating! It does look as though a lot of those folds & wrinkles have to do with surplus fabric that isn't being routed into darts in the right way for you. It'll be interesting to hear what you think of the book.