Sunday, October 7, 2007

Vogue 8398 - muslins!

Yesterday I made a muslin in size 8 based on my high bust measurement. It fit well across the bust - but that is all. The neck was too wide and the shoulders a mess.
Warning - you may want to look away as some very unflattering photos follow.......



So I then made a size 6. Much better across the neck and shoulders but it does not meet at the centre front - maybe my first ever FBA? I am a C cup so I suppose I need one. I also need to move the bust point down.



But the back still has issues and I am not sure what they are. To me there is still too much fabric around the armhole.


It fits Eames much better than me (which of course is telling me something...lol). But she still needs to lower the bust dart and do something with the back. Normally I would need a sway/straight back adjustment but I haven't done this as it does not go below the waist. Maybe I need a centre back seam so that I can adjust from there? Or maybe you just need that extra room to reach forward?



Today I will move onto the skirt and wait for some feedback as to where to go next...


Yesterday Summerset commented "...make yourself a simple, fuller skirt like you suggested out of that purple/white flower print, then make that little jacket in a solid purple or a solid white with purple topstitching. Then wear a close fitting t-shirt or tank with it in the opposite color (either white or purple), maybe with a little lace on it. Pretty, feminine, and spring-like! It is getting to be spring in your part of the world, right?" Yes, it is spring and I love, love, love your suggestion! Thankyou very much Summerset! I want to make the green up first as I have all the fabric for that. And if I can get this jacket to play nice I can certainly have more than one! ;))

5 comments:

Sew4Fun said...

Ugh! Fit issues, blah! If it makes you feel any better I was fighting with a raglan sleeve jacket pattern two weeks ago. I tossed it aside. :)

Slip a raglan shoulder pad in (a small one) and see if it helps.

patsijean said...

My feeling is that the size 8 is a better fit. I studied the design drawing and that neck is not a jewel neck. I think it is supposed to be that wide to allow for the collar. The 8 fits better in back and front. As you stated the 6 does not meet in front because it is too small and there are horizontal stress lines in the upper back. In "More Power Sewing" on page 52, Sandra Betzia suggests marking the halfway point in sleeve armhole front and bodice armhole front and drawing in a 1/2" taper,(or scoop) on both pieces from that mark, neck edge to underarm tapering to zero at neck and underarm, then trimming away that bit of extra fabric on each piece to take in some of the extra fabric that a raglan seem can have over the armhole. I would suggest you try this in front on the size 8 jacket, and also draw that curve on the back sleeve armhole seam next. I would not take much from the bodice back.

Summerset said...

I agree with Patsijean - out of the two the 8 fits better. I have the same fit issues with Vogue - I cut a size small through the neck/shoulders and a size larger through the bust. It is always easier to start with something larger and take away bit by bit until it fits.

Glad you liked my suggestion! I can understand making up the green outfit first since you do have all the fabric.

Tany said...

I'm not a fitting expert but I agree with Patsijean too. I hope you can make it work!

Theresa (Textilogist) said...

I cannot offer any advice-its been well covered so far-I can offer my best wishes with the challenge and let you know that along with others I'm interested to hear your progress. It is a very sweet little jacket.