Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Fitting - part 2 - measurements

I have taken all my measurements and have compared them to the Burda standard measurements. Going by them I am pretty much somewhere between a 36 and 38. However if I follow FFRP's guideline of using upper chest as a guide I would be a 34.

One major thing to notice is that my back waist length is short (as expected) at 39 cm's. In the past I have not adjusted for this other than by way of a sway back adjustment. And I have not been happy with that result. Here is a lovely side on shot of me - doesn't look like a sway back nor a straight back to me. What do you think?

Another thing to notice is that I do swing out quickly from waist to hip.
I may need to shorten here as well so that the high hip is higher.

Now, I have posted this very unflattering photo as it shows something interesting. My shoulder slope and the place where the necklace sits. From the back (prior photo), the slope looks much more than the 4.5cm we measured. Maybe we only measured from where the necklace is falling - is that correct? From the front the slope does not look so steep - hmmm.
And finally, I think my bust is low eventhough my bust depth measurement is as per sloper. Maybe I need to shorten the upper chest and then lower the bust? Oh so many questions, and to find the answers, I think I need to get a muslining!

I had a bit of a play around on the photocopier today and came up with this:

I don't think the proportions are completely accurate (maybe the angle my photo was taken at)but it gives a nice summary.

So tomorrow the plan is to draft up a sloper for the bodice and compare to the Burda sizes and see what I come up with. Wish me luck....


Summerset said...

Interesting. I definitely need to do this. I don't see a pronounced sway back, either. Our builds are similar, except for height - I'm 157.5cm - so this very informative. I love what you did with the photocopier, too. Great thinking.

kasizzle said...

Very informative and interesting! I know I could benefit from doing the same thing.

Sigrid said...

This is a interesting method. Didn't know it, as I don't have that book. Good luck with your muslin.

designdreamer said...

Well I DO have that book, and I (hanging head in shame) haven't really read, nor used it that much. I'm really finding these posts interesting AND helpful, as fitting is one of my objectives lately. I'm getting better for sure, and you're posts are definitely motivating me. Thank you!

designdreamer said...

Summerset, we are the same height, (almost) although I think you are probably a true petite, whereas I've never considered myself one (i.e., if I buy petite pants the crotch is always too short, AND unfortunately, I don't have dainty hands nor feet). My arms and legs however are quite short - thanks Mom and Dad! PLUS, I carry the majority of my weight in my hips down!!! Arrrrgh!!

Sew4Fun said...

Good luck Vicki. I'm enjoying following your progress. I liked how you placed your photo alongside the P/P examples.

"Maybe I need to shorten the upper chest and then lower the bust?"

Or you could shorten below the bust point/ above the waist, then raise the bottom of the armhole. Personally I find this much easier than moving the bust shaping. On knit tops, where there is no bust shaping, I do shorten above the bust. (I'm only 1cm shorter than you).

P.S. I wouldn't say you have a sway back. It's looks "average" to me.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Vicki what great work you are doing. I think by taking the pictures you get a much better outlook of all these measuremnts taken.(I didn't do this and feel I should now) I do not see a sway back, actually I believe it is more of a straight back. Your posture is very good. You have the slope right - measured from - the necklace, where it "sits" to the pivot point. Your right side shoulder slope just appears a bit different from the left. Were the measurements the same? All in all you look good and it doesn't look like you would have many major fitting issues. At least now you know a sway back alteration is not required:)
I'm really enjoying reading your results. Good luck with your muslin...are you using a fitting pattern? which one? Thanks Ann

Anonymous said...

Hi Vicki. Just a little tip from your post yesterday... if you need to take a screen shot from your computer, rather than using the digital camera, hit the 'Print Screen' button on your keyboard (should be above the 'insert' and 'page up' keys) then open a photo program (old-school MS Paint will work just fine) and paste it into a blank document. You can then crop to just the details you require and save as a jpeg.

Alana said...

Excellent job putting yourself into that series of line drawings.

Ten year years ago, I made a croquis of myself using Gail Grigg Hazen's method. I still find it useful!