Sunday, February 10, 2008

Fitting - part 3 - sloper (part c)

I wish I had some good news to report. I have spent 2 days on this and I am no closer. If fact I am so p*ss$d off I am leaving it for a few days.

My measurements keep changing. The more I take them the more variances I get.

I have raised the bust and taken out the changes to the front bodice. My latest measurements agree with the sloper.

I also picked up an error in the bodice. Remember it did not reach around me at waist level? Well I measured the sloper bodice at the waist and it was only 65cm. The standard measurement for size 10 is 64 and add the 2.5 ease (they say there is) and the 4cm I added = 70.5. But it only measures 65! I double checked my sewing and it is accurate. The skirt waist measures 71 (as it should). So I gave myself more room in the bodice and reattached the skirt. AND IT IS STILL TIGHT!!

I also tried putting in the sleeve and I could not get my arm into it. My arm is 28 and the sloper has 31 across the bicep - I should be able to get my arm in?

I also raised the armhole in one side by 2cms so as to compare the raised and non raised. I was all ready to have the photo taken to ask your opinion, but the battery is dead. I think that is telling me enough is enough. I am putting this down until Wednesday (my next day off).

Designdreamer asked if the "material" came with the kit - yes the kit comes with the pieces all marked, a tapemeasure, dots, and a curve. It also has C & D cup pieces. You just need to cut out the pieces.

This project is taking way longer than I thought it would. Every change means unpicking and reworking.

Ok, I am cranky and I am going to bed. Thanks everyone for the support and advice.


Gwen said...

I'm so sorry the sloper seems to be fighting you - I've experienced that recently myself and know exactly how frustrating it feels! :(
The good news - it went much better for me after a short break, and I bet you'll come out on top ;) on Wednesday when you get back to it! :)
Hang in there,

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Vicki, I'm sorry things aren't working out, wish there was something I could do to help...this last muslin looked like it was it, other than adding a little to the front... I know you will finish it and be successful. I looked back at your photo album and all your garments look very good on you and fit you very well. What ever you have been doing up to now has been working.
Wish you luck :)

alethia said...

I understand how you feel. I have been working on my fitting sloper and it is a lot of work. I made a total of 6 muslins. I have not work on it for the past 4-5 days. Hopefuly when it will go better when i go back to it. The lesson i learned from my experience and from following your progress is that it is better to work on it in small increments of time, because you need time to digest the fitting challenges. Also time to reflect on all the great feedback the sewing community gives you.

toya said...

what's interesting is that your measurments are changing every time to make a new sloper,, wow, are you taking them at a different time of the day, like morning,, then afternoon...
I hope you figure it out in the future its very very enlightening

Summerset said...

You're so right to put it away and let it rest a few days. When you get back to it, you'll look at it with fresh eyes.

Did you account for the space that the darts take up? If the pattern was measured flat with the dart unstitched, it might be right, but with the darts stitched shut there's goes some of the circumference. That's the only thing I can think of that would cause such a problem. Keep going you're going to really reap the benefits from going through the process!

designdreamer said...

Thanks for the reply, and if it makes you feel any better, (and I'm kidding here) I wouldn't be needing that C, and certainly not that D cup! As a matter of fact, I'd probably need to do a SBA :-(
On the other hand, both of my two older dds, Do need FBAs! Go figure! I guess they got it from their dad's side of the family?!! To make matters worse, I've got full hips and thighs. Try fitting that! I DO have to agree that the fit on many of the things you've show us have looked fab!
I have a dress from RTW (Ann Taylor) that fits me like a glove. I'd take it apart to make another, but then I wouldn't have the one I have! I know there's a method to copy it using pins and/or chalk or something. I'm going to have look into it.

Tany said...

Vicki, I've been away from the blogland for a few days and when I return I come upon your WONDERFUL JOB sharing the process of achieving the correct fit for your body type! This is invaliuable information and THANK YOU for sharing all this with us!

Sew4Fun said...

I understand your frustration! Been there, done that too many times.

As for your m'ments I learnt pretty early on to only measure once, maybe twice. After that put the tape measure away and let your sloper do the talking. That tape measure has far too much to say. :)

The sleeve - Did you clip the seam allowances after setting in the sleeve, or cut them back to 6mm? This makes a huge difference.

Otherwise, the way you measure your bicep can make a difference. The books show measuring the arm while it's by your side. I've found it better to measure the widest part of my upper arm while your arm is flexed/ tensed. In every day life as we lift things the upper arm flexes and becomes bigger in size. The sleeve needs enough ease to be comfortable when our arm is flexed. This may be relevant to you as you work-out at the gym. Just a thought.

Anyway, you are right to put it aside. When you come back to it you will have a fresh mind which helps more than anything. If you ever want a fit buddy just holler.

Lashell said...

I feel your pain. I also worked on a sloper this weekend and it was just not working out. Especially since the alteration only go up to a DD and I am bit more than that. I figure I'll try again win I have some more mental energy. Good luck with you sloper.

Emily said...

I know exactly how you feel! I finally got a dressform a few weeks ago, and I STILL feel like I can't get the measurements right. I keep measuring and re-measuring, and I can't seem to get it right. I even recruited my boyfriend to help, and he was exhausted one night adjusting and readjusting with me one night!

Birgitte said...

Well all I can say is ditto! I keep walking away from it, and then return cause my mind won't let it go! It is SO frustrating! Then I try to calm myself with the thought that there is such a thing as over-fitting. I think we're both very close to that point... Like Belinda said about the sleeve ease; that also applies to the entire bodice. We have to be able to move- and breathe, don't you think? I know it'll work out- you will have a fabulous fit in the end!

justlearning said...

Hi Vicki, I was wondering how much it costs for a Vogue Pattersn Professional Fitting Program. Could you email me at and let me know? thank you

Vicki said...

Hi Martha, You haven't left an email address so I can't email you, but hopefully you will look here. I am not sure how much the Fitting Program costs but you could look it up on My one was very old and I found it very hard to interpret. I would recommend the saran/cling method over that. Also McCalls have a fitting pattern that may be useful.

HTH, Vicki