Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Fitting - part 3 - sloper (part d)

Do you think I need to raise the underarm? According to fitting books a fitted armhole is about 1/2" from your actual underarm with your arm down and 1 1/2" with your arm out to the side. But where do you measure that from? The highest arch?

And do you think the front is too wide? It goes a bit into my arm. And as for that elusive shoulder point..........

Now this is supposed to be fitted with miminal ease so I want to get the upper chest area correct. I am thinking that looking at the first photo I need to take side seam in too at the top only. So maybe the alteration is to cut out the armhole and raise it say 2cms and move it over about 1cm and then redraw the shoulder point back to original place?

I am getting the feeling that it is too big from chest upwards as the fabric is puffing out from my body. Feedback please.............

8 comments:

a little sewing on the side said...

Wow, these fitting posts are really good. I've had so many of the same experiences - like getting different measurements every time! At this point, I think your sloper looks darn good!
I'll be following with interest as the experienced ones respond. Well done :)

/anne... said...

Have you cut away the seam allowance on the armhole?

Because if you have, I think you could take the tiniest bit (maybe 2-3mm) away from the front armhole and shoulder. Also, I think any puffiness will probably go away when you put sleeves on it, and make it out of fabric not paper! :-), If you overfit the bodice, you can create problems with sleeve movement - learnt the hard way!

Honestly, it doesn't really look puffy - just stiff pattern paper.

I also wouldn't worry about the side seam; you'd possibly take it in if you were making a sleeveless garment, and leave it as-is if you were making a garment with sleeves. I think you're thinking of this as a sleeveless bodice, when it's not. OTOH, you could work it up as a sleeveless sloper with the changes you've suggested, put it away, go back to the way it is now, and then work on a sloper with sleeves.

Anyway, looking good! You're making me feel guilty that I drafted two slopers over Christmas (for me and DD), and they're both still on paper. Have to get the calico out soon!

Sigrid said...

This looks very good. Like Anne I think that what you experience as puffing is the paper.
But I'm not an fitting expert, and never made a sloper, so it's only my way of looking at it.

paco peralta said...

Vicky .- Ah! I still have all your attention steps on this "sloper". I think that continuing very well and I agree with the comment ANNE, you have to make a first test "muslin" because the paper is always too rigid. I did some tests "shirts" and the fabric always brings you to reality. Ufff !!!!. I wish I could get a good understanding of English. Could give you a good explanation "face to face". Sorry. A big hug from Barcelona. See you soon. Paco

Kathleen C. said...

I think all your thoughts are right on target... for both armscye alterations and the side seam.
As for the upper chest... I thought it did look a bit full... but it sure could be the stiffnes of the paper.
I like where your shoulder point seems to be. Why does it feel wrong?
Keep going... You're in that minor tweaks area now!

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Vicki I'm glad to see you are definetley making progress....it looks really good. I think the underarm does look like you could raise it a bit...I put my sloper on and mine is a little higher than yours. I think when you make it out of muslin it won't look stiff. Hope you are happier with todays work cause it really does look like a good fit :) Your efforts have paid off.

kbenco said...

Vicki, I have no idea about fitting but want to thank you for posting all your steps on your blog, I am learning a lot. You are working so hard on this - your sloper is looking better every post, so you must be nearly there!

Tany said...

It looks alright as it is to me, Vicki!