Wednesday, May 9, 2007

Today I have spent the day working on a muslin for this jacket. As expected I needed to do a forward shoulder adjustment and sway back. I also adjusted the shoulder seam to take out the need for shoulder pads. This may have been a mistake as the pattern does not call for "stuffing" (the Marfy term for shoulder There was still too much fabric in the yoke section, so I took out 2 cms in the armscye area (and in the sleeve to match).

This photo shows the back before any adjustments. You can see that it there is too much fabric in the back. I adjusted for the length in the yoke and the sway back. I did not adjust for width as the shoulder width seem about right.

After adjustments I got Ellen to take a couple of photos of the muslin on me. Not a pretty sight! Looking at the back it does seem I have too much fabric in the width. My left armhole has had the seam allowance removed and it appears to be in the right place. But the right looks like it has too much fabric and the set in sleeve has dropped.

I may need to lengthen I cm above the bust (but below the yoke) to move bust down a tad. Also another 1cm below the bust to then bring waist back down to where it should be. This will bring back in the 2 cms that I took out in the yoke section

Please if you have any suggestions comment me. I would love to hear your opinions. In the meantime, I will go back and re read Fit for Real People, from front to back.

And Belinda when you asked "tears or tantrums" the other day when a project is giving you grief? Well I now know it is tears....and even more than tears...depression! Yep, I get depressed and that flows onto everything else and I just want to eat icecream.....mmm, cookies and cream........


Tany said...

I'm not an expert on fitting (I usually do slight adjustments like a sway back adjustment on very fitted jackets), I wish I was, to be able to help you... I bought this book recently, hoping it would improve my fitting abilities: "Fitting & Pattern Alteration, a multi-Method Approach". I think it covers just about everything but I'm still studying it.

Belinda said...

Oh Vicki! :-((( Anytime a project makes me depressed I trash it. I figure I sew to be happy, not depressed. Eat the ice cream and dream of another pattern. :-)